The Altbiers of Dusseldorf

I've said it before and last week only reinforced it for me, Dusseldorf is perhaps the greatest single- night pub crawl in the world for a beer lover.  If I had to spend a week in a city I'd choose Bamberg over Dusseldorf because there is more variety of beer and pubs in and around the city.  However, if I had only one night, you simply can't beat Dusseldorf IMO. 

There are five breweries in Dusseldorf that brew Altbier on site at their own pub.  Four of them are in the Altstadt and the fifth, while it's main brewpub is outside the Altstadt, also has a nice outlet pub in the Altstadt where you can enjoy their beer.

What really struck me on this visit about the five different Altbiers is how each one of them has it's own unique taste.  In other words, they don't taste the same.  They range from the dry and hoppy Uerige to the sweet, caramelly Kuerzer and the others fall in between with Schlussel being the most balanced and my personal favorite of the five.  I'll give a rundown of them (with photos) in order from my least favorite to my most favorite.  I will say though that even my least favorite of the five is an excellent beer and I would gladly sit in that pub right now if it were possible.

So let's start with Brauerei Kuerzer.  This is the new kid on the block.  While the other four have been around a long time this one is only about 2 years old.  The atmosphere is a more modern brewpub style.  You can go in the back and look at the brewing equipment much like many of the modern American brewpubs that we're used to.  They differ also from the others in that they don't serve it from the oak barrel.  Their beer is served from some kind of contraption on the bar that they boast as an endless keg.  It appears to be some kind of glass keg that they continuously pump beer into from the cellar below. 

Kuerzer's beer is the sweetest of the five with a very pronounced caramel flavor.   It's quite drinkable though and I suspect those that don't like hoppy beer would really enjoy it. 

We were joined on the pub crawl by our friend Severin whom I met a few years ago through Ingmar and Severin had given me my first pub tour of Dusseldorf.  I make it a point to get in contact with him when I visit and this was our third Altstadt pub crawl together. 

Here's Dorff and Severin enjoying a laugh and the Kuerzer Alt.

I tried to get a shot of the "bottomless keg" on the bar.  I should have just got up closer to take the phote but I'm too lazy.

The brewing equipment was directly behind the bar area.









So I quite liked Kuerzer and will make sure to stop in again.

The next visit was a pub call Im Goldener Kessel about 1 block away (next street over) in the Altstadt.  Here is the Altstadt outlet for Brauerei Schumacher.  I have never been to the Schumacher brewpub itself mainly because it is not in the Altstadt and would require a long walk or a cab ride to get to.  I really should make the effort someday because I hear it is terrific.  But we stopped at Im Goldener Kessel for two Schumacher beers and just drank them outside.  I was quite pleased that even though it was December would could still stand outside and have beer served to us.  As you can see, Severin and I really enjoy this pub crawl.

The Schumacher beer isn't very hoppy but not as sweet as Kuerzer.  I really need to try the Schumacher more often as I vaguely remember it's taste and we didn't linger there long.

The next one though is unforgettable.  The very dry, hoppy, and amazing Brauerei Uerige.  In addition to this great Altbier it is one of the most beautiful pubs in the world.  There are multiple rooms that make up the pub each one a little different.

We first stood in the open room next to the brewery where they allow smoking.  It did get too smokey for me but the crowd in there was lively and enjoyable and we could watch the Kobe's rolling new barrels of beer past us from time to time.

Afterward we decided to go into the adjacent room to sit around a barrel.  No smoke in this room but it is still one of the more informal rooms where you go to just drink the beer and not worry about having to order food.  I paid this room a visit earlier in the day while Dorff was napping and got a kick out of the listening to the locals having a laugh and teasing the other patrons and staff when they walked by.

Another thing I truly love about the Dusseldorf pub crawl is that not only is the service fantastic (you're almost never without a beer - they just keep bringing them until you tell them to stop) but the Kobes (waiters in blue) are very entertaining.  They are the perfect balance between kick ass service and a don't give a fuck, cheeky, sarcastic attitude.  The one we had at Uerige got Dorff a bit riled up so we took some pictures of Dorff joking around with him while other patrons had a good laugh at the scene.

Uerige is just brilliant in every possible way.  It's my favorite pub worldwide.

However, before we got to Kuerzer, Schumacher, and Uerige we met Severin at my second favorite Altbier brewery Brauerei im Fuchschen.  Not quite as hoppy as Uerige but I think the second most hoppiest.  Also another magnificient pub.  We stood in the entrance hallway in front of the bar and watched the barrel changing process while we had a few.  It was hard to leave this place as the beer is so damn good and the atmosphere is really cozy.

Here is the entrance to Fuchschen.

Then we have the serving area.  Notice the two barrels on the bar.  One of them is in serving position and the other is upright.  The upright barrel is on top of an elevator that is used to lower empty barrels into the cellar and raise up a full one a few minutes later.  This happened twice while we were standing there.

Oh and what a beautiful beer it is.  A perfect Altbier.  Just look at that color.  Believe me, it tastes as good as it looks.









Dorff was happy with Fuchschen:

Now I've saved the best for last.  Or at least I've saved my favorite for last.  Brauerei Schluessel.

The perfect Altbier.  The perfect balance of hoppiness and maltiness in one glass all served in the dead center of the Altstadt in one of the most gorgeous pubs I've ever seen.  My friends I give you Schlussel.  The pictures speak for themselves.

Dorff and I also had a nice dinner at Schlussel.  They have a very traditional, regional menu.  I had a venison goulash with red cabbage that was brilliant.

Yeah you can tell I love Dusseldorf.  I've tried to put it into words the best I can but it's tough to really capture how great it truly is.  It really is one of the worlds greatest beer crawls one can possibly find.  It's worth going out of the way for even if only for one night.  It is so easy to visit all five Altbier pubs in one crawl as you don't have to wait around for service and you don't have to go in and sit down at a table if you just want to step up and try the beer at a counter or even outside.  In other words, they don't make you work for it.  I think it is the most beer lover friendly place I've ever been.  Okay, I've talked myself into it.  I need to go back as soon as possible.